Experience the ‘New West’ in this Wyoming spot
Ernest Hemingway’s travels took him to places far and wide, and while the author may be most associated with Key West or Havana, there’s a spot in northern Wyoming that he chose as the place to work on his novel A Farewell to Arms.
The same peaceful, serene setting that Hemingway sought out in the 1920s can still be found today amid the Bighorn Mountains in Sheridan County. About halfway between Mount Rushmore and Yellowstone National Park on I-90, this is a popular stop for road trippers passing through. But as the famous author can attest, this is a destination worthy of a trip in its own right.
Here you’ll find Old West history, cowboy culture and beautiful vistas paired with a thriving craft community and modern amenities that embody the “New West.” Read on for our four-day guide to exploring Sheridan.
Day one: get on mountain time
The county of Sheridan—and its largest city of the same name—is easily accessible via I-90, US 14 and US 87. The Sheridan County Airport also offers daily direct flights from Denver, where you can easily connect from around the world.
You'll have many options for where to stay, and perhaps the most fitting is to experience a dude ranch. Eaton’s Ranch in Wolf is said to be the oldest of its kind. It first opened in 1879 in North Dakota and moved to its current location in 1904. They offer an all-inclusive stay, which covers accommodations, meals, use of a saddle horse and more. Guests can go horseback riding twice a day, Monday through Friday, with their choice of morning, afternoon and evening rides. There's also limited availability on the weekends. (Picture that: early morning dew, crisp mountain air and the wind in your hair.) The ranch also has fishing, swimming, archery and more.
Step back in time with a stay at the Historic Sheridan Inn. Opened in 1893, the Inn's claim to fame is former resident William F. "Buffalo Bill" Cody. It's said he used the front lawn to host auditions for his Wild West show. Today, the intimate inn features 22 unique rooms that focus on the man himself and key people from his life. Relax on the welcoming front porch that wraps around to each side, or grab a cocktail or sit down meal at the Open Range steakhouse.
Now that you've arrived, checked into your stay and dropped off your bags, considering heading into town for your first evening to get the full lay of the land. Downtown, you'll find locally beloved Frackelton’s, a casual fine-dining establishment. Start with a cocktail, perhaps the Frackelton’s Old Fashioned (or a Frackelton’s New Fashioned, served in a smoke cube). Some of the stars of the menu include a gorgonzola penne pasta and the tenderloin.
Day two: crisp air and blue skies
River valleys, rolling hills and the rugged Bighorn Mountains are the setting for many chances to get out and enjoy nature. (The county itself is larger than 2 U.S. states.) Scenic byways lead the way to some of these spots and offer an accessible way to take in stunning vista views. The Bighorn Scenic Byway, for instance, runs 58 miles and brings you through the Bighorn National Forest and by Sibley Lake; the 120-foot waterfall Shell Falls; and the potential for wildlife viewing, including moose and deer.
It also leads to many hiking trails, like Steamboat Point. This popular out-and-back hiking trail is less than two miles but is considered a moderately difficult hike by experts due to its climb. But, the 360-degree view at the top is well worth it.
The region also has dedicated All-Terrain Vehicle (ATV) trails and mountain biking trails. A guided fly-fishing excursion is a great way to get up close with the landscape and enjoy some peace in nature. And if you're not staying at a ranch, you can enjoy a horseback ride with one of the nearby outfitters. Whether your sense of adventure leans toward the daring (rock climber) or leisurely (hiking near town), you’ll find it here.
You may be surprised to learn that in summer, Sheridan becomes a polo hot spot, where riders flock (or should we say, gallop) from around the world. It started in the 1890s when Scottish brothers introduced the game to ranch workers. The Big Horn Equestrian Center (just outside of Big Horn) is home to a polo club that plays every Sunday from June through August. Admission is free to watch, and after the match the clubhouse is open to everyone to mingle and grab a beverage.
After an exciting day outdoors, you're sure to have worked up an appetite. Much like coming upon a polo match might momentarily transport you across the pond, Sheridan's Le Rêve Restaurant & Raw Bar brings a bit of France to the West. Market fresh oysters, French onion soup and filet mignon are just a few menu items worth noting. But as a 2025 James Beard Award semifinalist for Best New Restaurant, you can't go wrong with any dish.
Day three: cowboy culture’s creative side
A big point of pride in the community is its creative craft culture. When you hear craft these days, you may think beverages (of which they have plenty of great options). But Sheridan has a rich history of Western artisans. Perhaps the best example of this is King’s Saddlery. The shop is known for its high-quality, hand-crafted items like ropes and saddles.
The shop is so iconic, even Queen Elizabeth II paid them a visit in the 1980s. Even if you're not in the market for a saddle, stop into the attached Don King Western Museum to see cowboy memorabilia and a glimpse at Western history. (And if you time the trip right, the Sheridan WYO Rodeo returns July 8–11, where you can see equipment like that in action.)
Just steps away from King's on Main Street is the Red Bison Studio. This small pottery shop features artisan mugs, tableware and more designs inspired by local hallmarks like trout, bison and the landscape. Further north in town, on Broadway Street is Expressions Art Gallery & Framing LLC. In addition to custom frames, the shop showcases local artists' work for sale, from fine art to textiles to sculptures.
Now, back to those craft beverages we touched on. Just a five-minute walk south from the art gallery on Broadway is Black Tooth Brewing Company. Head to the taproom to try one of their staple beers, like the 307 Lager (named for the state's only area code) or the Saddle Bronc brown ale. Downtown Sheridan is prime for window shopping, people watching and photo opps like the WYO Theater. You can't miss its landmark marquee outside. The century-old theater was restored in 1989 and today hosts live performance and concerts, community events and film screenings.
Consider The Warehouse Gastropub for your last dinner of the trip. The outdoor patio is the perfect way to soak up the summer evening. If you haven't already tried local fare, this is the perfect time with their bison burger, bison short rib and elk bolognese. Recount your travels with a nightcap at The Mint Bar. The famed neon sign welcomes you into a legendary bar that's been serving drinks since it opened in 1907 (during the prohibition years it ran a speakeasy). The watering hole has a long bar to belly up to and the walls are adorned with taxidermy and loads of photos.
Day four: until next time
Before you head out of town, caffeine and a good meal are required fuel for a travel day. For something quick and on the go, head to The Innominate Coffeehouse & Bakery. Choose a fresh-baked pastry like a bear claw, croissant or a (highly recommended) cinnamon roll. Or opt for a savory breakfast option like quiche and breakfast burritos. But if you have a bit of time before that flight, the Cowboy Cafe is a local mainstay. Omelettes, skillets, pancakes, benedicts and more make up the breakfast menu.
If you're headed south, the Brinton Museum is worth a stop on your way out of the county. Admissions is free to this museum, which showcases Western and American Indian art. While the visit is worth it for the art collection alone, its stunning location is a cherry on top (and the perfect way to end the trip).